Sad News about Molly & Gastrointestinal Stasis

It's with deep sadness that I announce the passing away of my beautiful Molly.

Molly Mumma

Molly had been poorly for a couple of weeks, and though she fought bravely, and we did everything within our power to pull her through, ultimately we had to make the difficult decision to have her put to sleep.

To make something positive out of this sad time, I wanted to share what happened.

Friday 29th December 2017

We had all seven piggies out together for floor time. Mr PB wanted to FINALLY connect all the hutches up together, allowing them to access all the floors. It was a big job and would take 2 days. At the end of Friday we decided the piggies were safe to leave out in their floortime run overnight.

Saturday 30th December 2017

Everything went well, until during the afternoon we noticed Molly had tucked herself away in a quiet corner of the run. She wasn't coming out for water, or to eat from the bowls as she had been that morning. We tried putting ReadiGrass and hay right next to her, and she was eating small amounts. If you held a bottle for her she would drink from it, but she didn't want to move.

We noticed a very soft poop where she'd been sitting, but not as many poops as I would expect her to do, considering how long she'd been sat there for. Worrying that Molly was going into Gastrointestinal Stasis, we decided to start syringe feeding her.

Molly looks unimpressed by her syringe feeding

Syringe Feeding a Guinea Pig - Method

We always keep small (1ml) syringes in our pet first aid box, but didn't have any Oxbow Critical Care, so instead we soaked Burgess Excel Tasty Nuggets  in plain water, ground them to a watery paste with a spoon, and sucked the mixture up into the syringe.
Hold your guinea pig's head in one hand, insert the tip of the syringe into the guinea pig's mouth, immediately behind the incisor teeth. Slowly squeeze the plunger of the syringe to dispense a small amount of the feed into the guinea pigs mouth.
Allow the guinea pig to chew, then repeat the process. If you try to feed too fast, you can make your guinea pig choke.

We aimed to feed Molly 2ml every 15/20 minutes. That doesn't sound much, but it is.

When we weren't actively feeding her, we kept Molly on her own in a big box with a towel, some hay, and placed a warm hotwater bottle underneath the box. GI Stasis is very painful - imagine when you have an upset stomach, so the warmth is soothing, but your guinea pig should not come into direct contact with the hotwater bottle, and shouldn't be allowed to get overheated.

We were also massaging Molly's abdomen constantly. Later in the evening she began passing tiny round poops, and then later as more fluids entered her system, the small poops started joining together into long clumps. Molly would also strain her tummy while we massaged her, it was clearly painful, but an important step to kick start her system again.

We constantly cleaned poops away from her bottom, and changed her bedding every couple of hours.

It's not a pleasant operation, your guinea pig is unlikely to think you are helping them, but you MUST be persistent.

Sunday 31st December

Despite our best efforts, and working in shifts all through the night, Molly was looking weak. We continued through the day, trying to tempt Molly with little bits of romaine lettuce, celery and carrot but she wasn't interested.

She'd lost 80g in just two days, so we had a frank discussion about how long it was right for us to continue. Molly is an elderly guinea pig - we don't know exactly how old, as she is adopted. Maybe she had just decided that this was her time? But her eyes were still bright and shiny, so together we agreed to keep trying through another night.

Monday 1st January
Molly looked a little brighter, and she actually began eating hay

Friday 19th January
We'd used our last Critical Care yesterday night, but more was due tomorrow. Molly suddenly looked weak again, and her weight had dropped another 60g. We fed her with mashed nuggets again, but she seemed to be straining, and her poops were getting smaller and rounder again.
We booked her an urgent appointment at the vets.

So What is Gastrointestinal Stasis (aka GI Stasis)?

Guinea Pigs have a very delicate digestive system, they are herbivores, but as one brand of pet food terms them, 'Fibrevores' may be more accurate. For good digestion and uptake of nutrients, they need to constantly eat long-staple fibre (ie long strands of hay). This fibre plus water feeds microorganisms in digestive system. The microorganisms then produce a type of volatile fatty acid. The fatty acid is what gives a guinea pig its appetite, and keeps its digestive system functioning properly. Any little blip in this delicately balanced system, in which the function of one part relies so heavily on another, and you would start to see symptoms of GI Stasis very very quickly. GI Stasis can lead to death in a matter of days. Early diagnosis and treatment are vital.

Symptoms of GI Stasis

The first thing you might notice is your guinea pig being quiet and not interacting with its cage mates or you.

You may notice it isn't drinking or eating as much as normal.

You may notice that your guinea pig isn't eating its caecal (pron: see kal) stools (the special softer poops that a guinea pig MUST eat to be healthy.

You may notice that your guinea pig is tired, eyes are dull, coat is puffed up.

You may notice that your guinea pig is passing very small, hard, or very soft poops, or worse still; isn't passing poop at all,

Any or all of these symptoms need investigating urgently. They could means any number of things are wrong with your guinea pig. If you are at all uncertain, then make an emergency appointment with your vet!

Molly's Final Trip to the Vet

Alex the vet listened to everything that had been going on, whilst checking Molly all over.
Eventually, he looked up and said "I can feel a mass in the left side of her abdomen".

This was a total bombshell.

To me it felt about 2.5cm long x 1cm, approximately torpedo shaped, hard and immobile.

Alex believed that this mass was probably the underlying cause of Molly's GI Stasis. He talked about the possibility of treating Molly with steroids to reduce the lump, but we knew it wouldn't be a cure, and besides, Alex's veterinary medicine handbook didn't give a steroid dosage for guinea pigs, so there was a strong risk of not giving enough, or giving too much.

Mr PB appeared to want to try, but I looked in Molly's eyes and said "I think it's time to let her go".
We shared a final cuddle with our gorgeous girl, and she snuggled in as close as she could.
Then Alex took her away to administer her injection.

We will be having Molly cremated, and keeping her ashes, like Pudding, there was something very special about her. In the 2 years and 2 months she was with us she touched our hearts very deeply.

I just hope she knew how much we love her, and that we gave her a happy retirement from her life as a breeding sow.

Sleep tight my Molly Mumma xx You are loved xx

Hetty Wainthrop - Rest in Peace

The Rainbow Bridge is calling you

Hetty Boom Boom RIP

Poor Hetty Wainthrop, our Lavender Splash Orpington hen has been very poorly.

She's always been the first to succumb to lice, red mite etc, I think it's because she is the bottom of the pecking order.

Add to that the fact that the breeder was trying to develop a new Orpington x Frizzle (which are not attractive BTW), and new colourways, I believe Hetty's genetics suffered as a result. Signs of this included some twisty twiddly feathers on her neck - a hint of the Frizzle genes, and her toes were twisted, meaning that we had to clip her claws regularly to keep them comfortable for her, as she couldn't wear them down naturally.

Last summer she was a big buxom beauty, inquisitive, happy, talkative.

Hetty last summer

This summer she was a shadow of her former self. She lost a lot of weight, hasn't passed a normal poop for a couple of months, had no energy and eventually was unable to stand up, let alone move around on her own.

She was eating and drinking (if you sat her right in front of her bowls), and everything was passing out of her crop into her digestive system, but after that, something was going wrong. Our vet Alex suspected Sour Crop (but admitted that didn't really fit her symptoms very well), or that her digestive tract had become damaged somehow, meaning she was unable to absorb anything from her food.

The first signs that something was seriously wrong came when we returned from holiday. It had been very hot and sticky, and she looked pale and tired. I looked for, and found, a big 'bloom' of red mite in the coop, so we emptied everything scrubbed it, cleaned it and doused it and the flock with Nettex Total Red Mite Powder.

Felicity and Jane looked fine, so we hoped that Hetty had just been the worst affected, and that with treatment she would recover. But she didn't. She got more tired, less enthusiastic about coming out of the run for a scatter feed of mealworms, and very unbalanced. She started using her wing to stop herself toppling sideways, and if you stroked her back she fell over instantly.

Treatments we tried:

NB: We did not use all of these simultaneously, they were administered carefully over Hetty's last two months with us, and according to the manufacturers' instructions. They were given alongside a well balanced layers pellet by Smallholders Range, dried mealworms, mixed corn and Hentastic Foraging Feast.

Ivermectin Spot-on Drops
Flubenvet Poultry Wormer
Farm and Yard Remedies Wormwood
Beryl's Friendly bacteria
Chicken Lickin Poultry Drink Concentrate
Verm-X Poultry Zest
Global Herbs Loose Dropping Formula

Plus we bought The Chicken Vet Poop Sample Kit, and sent a sample off to them. It was tested for a range of worms and coccidia infection. All the tests were negative - possibly because the other treatments had killed off whatever was there, or it wasn't a parasitic problem or infection at all.

When she reached the point where she couldn't stand or move around, Mr PB finally agreed with me that it was time to take her to Alex the vet one last time. Alex agreed to put her to sleep yesterday evening, and let us stay with her until she passed away. She has been cremated.

We believe we did everything possible to save Hetty, except catch her symptoms sooner.

Hetty Wainthrop xx

Sleep tight Hetty Hetty Boom Boom, we love you xx

Sad Days are Part of Life - Amended

I try not to write sad posts

There has been a lot of press recently about 'lifestyle' Youtubers and Instagrammers working themselves into the ground night and day, taking hundreds of photos of one set up to capture the perfect 'candid' shot, so they always look amazing, have perfect product placement, perfect lighting etc etc - all at the expense of actually enjoying the experience they are photographing. They are creating the illusion that only good things happen, their photos turn out Instagram-perfect first time and life is #nofilter

It's not the reality, and certainly not the reality of life with pets.

Mmmmm Pistachio and Chocolate gelato!

We'd been away on a fabulous holiday to Italy, having not been abroad for 17 years we wanted to make the most of it. We ate gelato in Venice, saw wild gentians growing 2950ft up a mountain, looked at Juliet's balcony in Verona, all the time knowing that our pets, plants and home were in the safe hands of our lovely pet sitter.

Other than Daisy poking herself in the eye half an hour before we left the house (eye drops administered and additional notes quickly scribbled on the pet sitters 'to do' list), our pet sitter had a fairly straightforward 10 days. We got regular updates and photos of everyone looking happy, and I think the pet sitter enjoyed herself too.

We had a quiet couple of days at home, playing with the piggies, hamsters and chickens, and mass-murdering a 'bloom' of Red Mite that had taken over the chicken coop, unpacking and catching up on holiday washing. Then
I went back to my day job while Mr PB took and extra day off at home.

At about 4pm my desk phone rang. It was Mr PB.
"Something's wrong with Rosie! I heard a rumpus and found her stretched out on her back with her legs in the air! I managed to get her right way up, she's breathing, but not really moving..."
I was stunned, she'd been absolutely fine, apparently even wheeking for veggies at lunchtime, coming to the front of the cage for a tickle...what was going on?

Initial thoughts were that she'd had a stroke, I got Mr PB to make her comfortable, give her some cucumber to she could keep her fluids up and make sure she was positioned near the fan - it was a rather hot day. I rang the vet, explained what was happening and made an appointment that evening. The receptionist was fantastic, and said if Rosie seemed to be deteriorating I didn't need to wait, I could take her straight in.

Guinea Pigs can survive strokes and make good recoveries, but it needs some extra care. I used Peter Gurney's 'Guinea Pig Health Guide' website  to help Mr PB over the phone until I could get there.

I drove home as quickly as possible, expecting Rosie to be in a pet carrier, ready for the 5 minute journey to the vets.

When I walked through the door, Mr PB looked glum, "I don't think she's okay, she was fitting and now she's very still"

I spoke to her softly, looking for signs of breathing. I couldn't be sure, so opened the cage and stroked her head. Her eye seemed to respond to movement but her ears felt cold. I picked her up carefully, and her little body was completely stiff - she had passed away.

I was devastated, we had rehomed her just six months ago, to give her piggie companionship. We were told she was two, so that made her two and a half. That's so young for a guinea pig. I felt I had failed her and her previous owner, who had put her into our care.

**Edit**
I've just looked back at Rosie's Gothcha post, and realised she was four when we got her, so four and a half when she passed away. That feels a little better, though I wish she had been with us longer, we miss you Rosie Po xx

Rosie loves Tilly

We don't know why this happened. I don't believe there was anything we could have done, her weight was steady, she was eating and drinking normally, and she had settled beautifully into life in a trio.

We desperately miss this little girl, who spent such a short time with us. With joy comes heartbreak, with life comes death, it's just the way the universe works.

Sleep tight Rosie, we love you very much xx

Sleep tight Rosie xx

Pet Owners Have to Take the Bad with the Good

Always be Vigilant with your Pets Health

When you've got 13 pets in your life, there are bound to be health issues cropping up from time to time. For ages there'll be nothing, then suddenly everyone needs extra attention.

As we go into the month of May, here are some of the things going on chez Pumpkin Becki.

Chickens

Felicity has been dreadfully broody, so she hasn't been taking care of herself with regular dust baths, eating, drinking, having grit, so it's been up to us to make sure she's getting out of the coop to eat drink and poop, inspecting her (and the others) for lice, treating with a spot-on type ivermectin (prescribed by our vets) if necessary, plus dusting her manually with diatomaceous earth. This is good, because you pick up each bird and can also get a sense of it's weight and overall condition. It's also important to thoroughly clean the coop with a red mite treatment, as warmer weather and hot. broody hens can cause a population explosion before you know it!

Hetty is such a sweet girl

Hetty is a natural midwife, when someone goes inside the coop to lay, she sits with them until they're done. With Felicity broody, Hetty has also not been looking after herself, but we thought she was midwifing and hadn't realised how bad she was until she began holding her tail was down.

Picking her up you could feel she was lighter than before, she had a few lice too but not in significant numbers. she got a spot-on treatment and a dusting. Then she pooped...well it was more of a squirt than a poop! Bright green bits in a watery white splat. This was NOT NORMAL! The ivermectin should clear up external and internal parasites including most worms, but not all. We'd been dosing the layers pellets with Flubenvet, but with Felicity and Hetty not eating properly, they probably weren't getting their proper dosage. Felicity has now come out of her broody phase and is back to her old fabulous self, but Hetty is suffering. We are now hand feeding her a mixture of growers and layers pellets, plus Verm-X Poultry Zest, softened in apple cider vinegar and water, with a sprinkling of corn for added appeal. The cider vinegar is said to be beneficial to poultry, reducing bacterial infection, and acting as a wormer and digestion aid by reducing the pH level in the chicken's digestive system.

Hetty being handfed a tempting, mushy mixture

On day one Hetty was silent and disinterested, she had to be encouraged to keep lifting her head up as we carefully syringe fed her. When we put her back on the ground she was very unbalanced and though she now had fluids and food in her we were desperately concerned.

On day two she allowed us to syringe feed her a little, but as I re-mixed the mashy concoction, she started pecking it off the spoon! She took little but often and we were really pleased with how much she managed to consume. We fed her three times over the day and she began standing up for longer and making her sweet little cooing sound again.

On day three she seemed a little brighter still, she had three feeds of her special concoction again, was more active in the run, pecking for her evening corn with the others, but being very submissive to them, and her droppings were definite squirts still.

Day four (today), she only ate a little of her mush this morning, but was keen to drink when she was put back in the run, and she put up a bit more of a struggle to be caught - always a good sign. By lunchtime she was coming out of the run on her own to peck for some scratch treats and beginning to stand up for herself again. Hopefully we've turned the corner, but we still need her poops to improve.

Action Shot: Omm nom nom nom

Hamsters

Fingers crossed, all is quiet on the hamster front.

Pip the Roborovski Hamster has awesome whiskers

Guinea Pigs

Rosie developed a bald patch on her rump last week. I suspect it's lice related, as she is quite reluctant to be touched near it. Alternatively she may be suffering from barbering at the hands (or teeth) of Phoebe or Tilly.

Rosie's bald patch

Barbering is where a guinea pig's hair is pulled out/ chewed off by itself or a cage mate. It shouldn't be treated lightly, and you must establish whether the hair loss is self inflicted or not. If self inflicted it could be the sign of a skin infection or infestation, and that must be dealt with. As with the chickens, it's the right time of year for a population explosion of creepy crawlies, so you must be vigilant for signs such as excessive hair loss, clumps of hair falling out with skin attached, scurf and bald patches. You may even see the lice wiggling around near the skin. they look like tiny fawn-brown...insects (sorry, I gave up trying to find a better description!).

If Phoebe or Tilly are barbering Rosie, it may be because she has long hair that looks a little hay-like (sorry Rosie, I'm not suggesting your hair looks like straw, honest!). If that's the case I may have to cut it shorter, but the patch is very localised, my instinct says it's lice.

I'm treating Rosie in several ways; she, Tilly and Phoebe have all had a spot-on treatment of ivermectin, then about five days later Rosie had a Gorgeous Guineas CocoNeem Melt treatment and a lather, rinse, repeat in Gorgeous Guineas Lice 'n' Easy shampoo. She is due for a follow-up bath one week later.

Rosie also has ongoing earwax issues. I've never known anything like it! Cotton wool buds don't really remove it, it needs emulsifying with something first and then wiping off. The internet suggests a mineral oil, but I also emailed Chrissie at Gorgeous Guineas to see if she has anything in her range to suggest. She doesn't have anything specific, but recommended an off the shelf product Otodex drops, or repeat applications of her CocoNeem Melt over three days.

Rosie is bright in every other respect, eating and drinking well, so if I don't see any improvement, including hair regrowth after all that, she will be going to the vets.

The Moral of this story is:

Always be vigilant with your pets, their health and well-being is your responsibility and yours alone. Changes happen quickly, particularly with 'prey' animals, who tend to hide their symptoms until the very end. Quick action on your part can reduce the chances of long term problems or fatality.

If you've experienced any of this issues too, do let me know in the comments.
Love
Pumpkin Becki xx

Guinea Pigs: Are there different breeds?

Are there different breeds of Guinea Pig?

Yes, there certainly are, more than you might imagine, in fact the British Cavy Council currently recognises 51 standard pure breeds of Guinea Pig for showing, which are: 

Abyssinian, Agouti, Alpaca, Argente, Belted Bicolour, Brindle Californian, Chinchilla, Crested, Any Other Variety Crested, Coronet, Dalmatian, Dutch, English Crested, Fox, Harlequin, Himalayan, Lunkarya, Magpie, Merino, Otter, Peruvian, Rex, Ridgeback, Roan, Satin, Self Beige, Self Black, Self Blue, Self Buff, Self Chocolate, Self Dark Eyed Cream, Self Pink Eyed Cream, Self Dark Eyed Golden, Self Pink Eyed Golden, Self Lilac, Self Red, Self Saffron, Self Slate, Self Dark Eyed White, Self Pink Eyed White, Sheltie, Solid Agouti, Swiss, Tan, Teddy, Texel, Tortoise and White, Tortoiseshell and Tricolour

They each have very strict breed guidelines which 'show quality' cavies are judged by. Pet Guinea Pigs will generally be cross breeds (mixtures of pure breeds), or animals seen as 'poor examples' of a pure breed that could never be exhibited at shows.

Lets just be clear here - this relates to exhibiting cavies, and winning prizes based on aesthetics - it has nothing to do with the character of a guinea pig or how wonderful a pet it will make. When you are choosing a pet piggie, don't base it on looks, coat type or colour alone, pet guinea pigs will come in an amazing array of these things, just make sure they are healthy and friendly. I have owned pure bred guinea pigs (Honey and Amber), bred by someone who showed and was a show judge. These poor piggies were susceptible to everything, pneumonia, ovarian cysts etc etc, and they lived relatively short lives because of this. We all know that mongrel (cross-breed) dogs usually live longer, healthier, more balanced lives than pure bred ones, same applies with guinea pigs. 

The difference between 'breed' and 'colour' is tricky to understand, and it's easier to think in terms of coat type and coat colour. For example;

• Himalayan is always pale cream/white with a brown patch on it's nose and brown ears (the Siamese cat of the Guinea Pig world), but can be found in long haired, short haired, Abyssinian, Rex etc. 
• Tri-colour can be any combination of three coat colours (usually, but not exclusively black, white plus a third colour, Emmeline's third colour is red, but Tilly's is Lemon) and any sort of coat type. 'Self' breeds have single, uniform colour coats, in any coat type. 
• Agouti is one colour hair shaft, tipped in a contrasting colour, usually golden or silver, it can be the entire coat (like Molly), or part of a tri-colour, or just a patch (like on Phoebe) ...you see the problem.

Lets look at some of the most commonly available Guinea Pig breeds by coat type.

Short Haired 

Illustration of Short Haired Guinea Pig by Rebecca Reynolds BA(Hons)

(aka English Short Haired and American Short Haired)

The oldest and most common breed available. Their coat is smooth and short, running in one direction from nose to rump.

Colour variations are huge, going from Self (a single, solid colour like black or cream), Tri-colour, Himalayan, Agouti etc.
Phoebe, Tilly and Emmeline are all English Short Haired.

Crested

The Crested falls into two categories, in both the main coat is a single colour, it's short and smooth except for a single rosette of flattened hair in the centre of the forehead. The English Crested's rosette is the same colour as the main coat (and can therefore be classified as a 'Self' breed). The American Crested's rosette always contrasts the main coat colour, usually in black or white (and so cannot be classified as a Self breed).

Abyssinian

Illustration of Abyssinian Guinea Pig by Rebecca Reynolds BA(Hons)

The coat of the Abyssinian is usually mixed colour (ie tortoiseshell, Agouti or Brindle. The hair is short and rough, and lies in rosettes all over the body and head, which create ridges where they meet.

'Show' Abyssinians have 10 rosettes over the body in a very specific pattern, and there should be no areas of smoothness. My illustrated one here wouldn't win any prizes!

Sheltie

Illustration of Sheltie Guinea Pig by Rebecca Reynolds BA(Hons)

The Sheltie (aka Silkie in America) is a long haired breed where the coat runs smoothly in one direction, from nose to rump with no partings or rosettes. The facial and shoulder hair is shorter than the rest of the body, which falls on the ground at the back and sides (known as the 'sweep'. Unless you are showing your Guinea Pigs, it is advised to trim the sweep regularly to prevent knots and mats forming. Shelties come in any colour or mix of colours.

Peruvian

Illustration of Peruvian Guinea Pig by Rebecca Reynolds BA(Hons)

Peruvians are also long haired, but the hair has two rosettes, one at the neck and one further down the back. There is also a parting along the spine. This makes the coat grow forward over the head, evenly down both sides, and backwards over the rump. When you see show Peruvians all brushed out, they look like toupees! Glamorous toupees, but toupees nonetheless! Non show piggies should have their coat trimmed to floor level to prevent mats forming. Peruvians come in all colours and mixes.
Rosie is a tri-colour Peruvian.

Illustration of Rex Guinea Pig by Rebecca Reynolds BA(Hons)

Rex

Rex coats are quite astounding, the hairs are dense, springy, short and wiry, with a lightly crimped appearance. The whiskers look crimped too! The coat stands upright away from the body, so Rex piggies look chunkier than they actually are. The Rex coat comes in many colours and mixes, but the Agoutis look really special. Molly is a Golden Agouti Rex

Teddy

Teddies look similar to Rex piggies, but the short, dense, bouncy coat is straight and should appear to run from the rump, back up the body towards the nose. At the top of the head this backwards hair growth forms a little fringe or 'cap' between the ears. The Teddy whiskers are straight. Teddies come in most colours and mixes.

Illustration of Texel Guinea Pig by Rebecca Reynolds BA(Hons)

Texel

The Texel has a mixture of Sheltie and Rex coat characteristics. The hair is long, sweeping back along the body from nose to rump. The hair falls in waves (almost dreadlocks) and is usually longer at the back than on the sides. To prevent knots and mats it is best to trim the hair to floor level.
Texels come in all colours and mixes.

Lunkarya

One of the most recently recognised breeds, the Lunkarya's long coat is naturally unruly, the hair on the face is Rex-like forming curly sideburns, and the body has ringlet curls and two rump rosettes which push the coat up and outwards. Lunkarya are not designed to be neat, so it's important to keep a sharp look out for knots and mats, and if not showing them, trim the coat to a manageable length all over. Lunkarya can be any colour or mix. 

Skinny Pigs

Developed in the 1980's from a genetic abnormality, the Skinny Pig is completely hairless, though the skin will have the colours and markings that the coat would have had. Their skin can be dry and sensitive, it requires protection from the sun and they should live indoors during the winter at the very least. Skinny Pigs require a knowledgeable, experienced owner.

Baldwin

Baldwin young are born with hair, which by 2 months of age has mostly fallen out, leaving just have a little patch of wiry hair on their nose and each paw. The skin will have the colours and markings that the coat would have had. Their skin can be dry and sensitive, it requires protection from the sun and they should live indoors during the winter at the very least. Baldwin Pigs require a knowledgeable, experienced owner.

And Finally: A Note About Satins

Satin Guinea Pigs don't just have shiny healthy-looking coats, the hair shaft is actually hollow, giving a glass-like appearance to the coat which is quite quite different to that of normal varieties. Almost all coat types and colours have been bred in the Satin variant, but it quickly became apparent that this genetic mutation did not just affect the hair, it could also affect skeletal bone density, often leading to Osteodystrophy (defective bone development aka OD) and/or Paget's Disease (excessive formation and breakdown of bone and bone marrow). Both diseases are chronic, painful and degenerative, and can only be supported with pain relief, there is no cure. X-rays can determine how far the diseases have progressed, and what degree of pain relief is needed. 

Many Cavy Societies have actually banned the exhibiting of Satins, due to the welfare issues involved. The British Cavy Council still has classes for Satins, but I hope that this will change, as promoting a variety that carries such genetic problems only encourages breeding for profit not welfare.

Satins are only suitable for experienced owners who are also prepared for the high cost of veterinary care involved.

Never buy a Satin. Adopt, but only if you feel you can give one a reasonable quality of life with support from a knowledgeable vet and a regime of pain relief.

Never breed a Satin with another Satin. The genetic mutation that causes the satin coat is too complicated to be controlled by backyard breeding, it cannot be bred out, and you could be subjecting animals to unnecessary pain and suffering.

Saying Goodbye to Pets - How to deal with grief.

Saying goodbye to beloved family pets is one of the hardest trials life can throw at us.

Minky
Photo by Pumpkin Becki

We have just had Minky our Russian Dwarf Hamster put to sleep by the vet. She was 2 weeks away from her 2nd birthday, which is very good going for a little Russian Dwarf, but overnight she became poorly, bleeding from her back end, and one eye was closed. She was still her feisty little self, but weak, unbalanced and falling asleep mid-activity.

Many people can't understand others feeling grief and loss for an animal. Others can understand it if the animal lost is a dog, cat or horse, but not a 'small animal'. They assume that small animals have no personality to become attached to, that they are emotionally 'disposable'.





I hope that through this blog I can help reverse that view.

Be kind to yourself. Take time to grieve, you have lost a family member.

Allow children to grieve too. I've met many parents who refuse to allow their children to have any sort of pet, because they don't want to have to deal with the upset of that pet becoming ill or dying, and their child's subsequent emotions and questions.

It's a real, genuine shame, because experiencing the loss of a pet will help a child learn about the circle of life, and make dealing with the death of a relation or friend a little easier to cope with. I'm not suggesting that you have a pet solely for that purpose, that's not right at all, but to grow with a pet, form a bond, let that pet go physically and emotionally, and then learn to celebrate the joy it brought you is a very healthy, normal process. Don't deny a child that just because you don't want to deal with it.

When the time comes, options open to a small pet owner depend on the situation:

Natural death:

If your pet passes away in it's sleep it's probably easiest to bury it in your own garden, providing you have the appropriate place to do that. I tend to wrap my little friend up in a compostable bag, with a 'nest' of paper bedding. It makes me feel better about the process. Make sure you bury the parcel deep enough, ideally with a stone laid on top of the soil so a dog, cat or fox doesn't try to dig it up. It's also worth marking the grave somehow so it doesn't get disturbed when you're gardening.

Vet assisted death:

If you and your vet agree that the time has come to put your pet to sleep, the veterinary practice will have several options for you.

• You can take your pet home with you for burial
• You can opt for a communal cremation - no remains are returned to you
• Or a solitary cremation - where you will receive ashes in a canister that you can scatter or keep.

Poppy and Coco
Photo by Pumpkin Becki

Some practices may offer to dispose of the body for you, this was certainly offered to me years ago, but is not something my current vet practice does.

We have taken all three options with various pets.
Twinkle and Minky were both brought home and are buried in the flower garden
Coco and Poppy were cremated with other people's pets, and the remains disposed of by the crematorium.

Pudding
Photo by MrPB

Pudding...Now Pudding (aka PudPud, Pu Bear, Bumble) was a VERY special guinea pig. She touched our hearts in a way that I don't think will ever be equalled.

She passed away in MrPB's arms at home, but we took the decision to take her to the vets the following morning and have her cremated on her own, so that we could have her ashes back.

We keep them in a little blue and white china ginger jar on our sideboard. No, it's not weird or morbid, we just couldn't let her go completely, and when we disagree on something we still refer it to PudPud for ultimate adjudication.








Obviously there is expense involved with any vet assisted death. You will have to pay for the appointment and method of dispatch. Burying at home is free, but the cremation options increase the cost dramatically, with solitary cremation and ashes being the most expensive.

Plan for this expense!

If funds are an issue, then start a 'pet fund' as soon as you get your pet (if not before), to give you a buffer from unexpected expenses like vet care. It's the only responsible course of action, an animal cannot suffer because you don't have the funds to offer it a pain-free death.

Pumpkin Becki xx

Introducing my family part 2

Guinea Pigs

Part 2: Molly and Emmeline

You know how some people dare not go into a particular shop for risk of falling in love with something they really don't need, but really really want. It might be a shoe shop, bakery, electronics store, stationers...mmmmm stationery!...Where was I! 

For me, it's Pets at Home, and in particular, the Adoption section...

I just can't stay away, and a single guinea pig will always pull really hard on my heart strings.

On Thursday 5th November 2015, Mr PB and I were on our way home after a long day; we needed some more Burgess Excel nuggets for Tilly and Phoebe so stopped in at Pets at Home, which is only a few minutes drive from work.

We picked up what we needed and then went to look at the baby piggies, then wandered over to the Adoption section. We looked at the rabbits, the hamsters, the gerbils, and then spotted a guinea pig shaped shadow in a cardboard tunnel.

The sign said "Ana and Elsa"...one of the assistants was clearly a Disney Frozen fan, or trying to make the piggies really attractive to small children. We looked and looked, but could only see one piggie in the cage, maybe the other one was hiding under the hay. we stayed for quite a while talking the the first piggie, but she was terribly shy.

I decided to go and ask an assistant about her.

It turned out that Elsa and Ana had been breeding sows for Pets at Home's breeding farm (it sounds like a big operation). The breeder had given a quantity of sows to the main supply hub, and they had been distributed to lots of Pets at Home stores across the region. The girls had been in quarantine for several weeks, but on the morning of being ready to re-home, Elsa had sadly passed away.

Now, I doubt very much that Elsa and Ana had been cage mates prior to being delivered to our store, I imagine the sows had all been in individual cages either pregnant or with their litters, and had also not been very used to being handled regularly.

Ana was taken out of the cage by the assistant...and I fell in love!

Ana/Molly

Imagine if you will a scrubbing brush and a hedgehog having a baby together...that's what she looked like! She is a Rex guinea pig, which means she has a wiry coat that stands on end rather than lying flat, and she has curly whiskers and paw hair. Being an ex-breeding sow, she had squashy saddlebags where her babies had been, her ears looked well-chewed, and she was very nervous.

I took her from the assistant and tucked her under my chin and...Oh my goodness!! "Yes, she's coming home with us!" I exclaimed.

We discussed our set up and experience, and the assistant agreed that as she wasn't a very socialised piggie, she'd be much better with us than with children.

We settled her in a cage on her own, underneath Tilly and Phoebe's cage, so that she could acclimatise. Eventually we hoped that we might be able to put them together as a herd, but after several unsuccessful bonding sessions, it became clear that although Tilly was very happy, Phoebe's 'Alpha Female' traits were too strong, she was all grown up now and didn't want another Mamma thank you :) 

We knew that Ana didn't really suit our new girl as a name, and we tried quite a few options before finally settling on Molly. We do love a name that ends in an 'eee' sound :)

We asked Pets at Home for some information, roughly how old she was, how many litters she'd had, that sort of thing. This is the bit that makes me sad and angry at Pets at Home. When we adopted her, the assistant said she would try to find out these things for us. After a couple of days I still hadn't heard, so rang the branch. I overheard a conversation between a Supervisor/Manager and an Assistant (because the assistant hadn't put me on hold or covered the microphone properly). The assistant was told by the manager that there were too many ex-breeding guinea pigs coming from the breeder in any one shipment to get individual histories. They just got divvied up between that branches by the central hub, and the branch "wouldn't bother trying to get that sort of information from the breeder just for a guinea pig"... Yup.... I seethed on the other end of the phone. When the assistant relayed this information is a slightly edited form, I said that I just wanted to be able to provide my vet with a few basic details. Regardless of how long she had left she would be loved for the rest of her days and it was an honour to be able to give her a happy retirement.

I would have thought that information would be fairly standard. A breeding sow was probably able to have 'x' number of litters, or would be kept for breeding until 'y' years old, after which they would be euthanised or given up for adoption. Surely then the breeder would have a rough idea of the animals age to know whether it could safely have another litter, of it was now unprofitable to keep it.

Anyway, Molly settled in, was doing quite well on her own and enjoyed laptime, but she was still very quiet and timid in the cage. Five months after we got her, a friend at work told us that his daughter's guinea pigs were having difficult times. Tipsy, the mother, had been diagnosed with lymphoma, and her daughter Emmeline (nicknamed 'Bitey') was quite feisty. I popped in one evening to see if I could offer any support or advice from my own experience.

A quick feel of Tipsy revealed lumps all round the lymphatic system, the biggest was under her chin, but she also had them behind her elbows and low down in her abdomen. It didn't look good. I talked to them about signs to look for as she declined, so that they would know when to get her to the vet to have her put her to sleep. I was thinking in terms of weeks, and sadly was proved right.

My friend had decided with his daughter that they didn't want any more guinea pigs, so I said that when the time came, and they were ready, we would give Emmeline a home.

Emmeline

The whole family brought Emmeline, her cage, food and all her toys over to our house one Saturday morning, I immediately got her out of her carry cage for a cuddle and took her for a walk round the garden on my shoulder while we (humans) chatted.

Her indoor cage was placed on our kitchen table near the other piggies, and stayed there for a couple of weeks while we began the process of introducing Emmeline to Molly.

The introductions begin

We used the indoor run as we had with Tilly Phoebe and Poppy, filled with lots of hay, some veggies and water. Initially they were more interested in eating, then they spotted each other, and all hell broke loose! There was rumble strutting, wheeking, teeth bearing, teeth chattering and defensive weeing like I've never seen - Emmeline is more effective than a water pistol!! And where she keeps all that liquid I have no idea.

There were a couple of occasions where they were lunging at each other, but we always sat right next to the cage armed with towels to smother and separate them if needed. Thankfully they never went that far.

Slowly over the course of a couple of weeks, the incidences of fear and dominance reduced in frequency and  ferocity. We were able to leave them together for longer, then leave them unattended while we watched tv in the next room (always listening for signs of trouble). Once they were almost there Mr PB bought and modified a new cage for them to live together in (Molly's one was only really big enough for a single piggie). Once the hutch was complete, they moved in together with still an air of disgruntlement, especially when Molly tried to mother Emmeline and wash her ear. But Emmeline was determined to be dominant.

Happy, inseparable girls

When she finally realised that Molly was the Mamma and there was nothing she could do about it, she let Molly wash her ear and the war was over...just like that, and now they are inseparable friends. They smoosh up next to each other, share food and everything, it's adorable and I'm so happy for them, they are both lovely calm confident piggies xx

Next Time...The Hamsters